glorified homelessness
[info]omargooding
Returning from Guatemala we decided to go the summer without a home, or more accurately, a solid structure in which to live. Back in Colorado in the forest between Boulder and Nederland, we have found one of my favorite homes yet; in a two man tent. It is hard for people to believe, but we are actually more that bearing through it, we are loving it. Friends and co-workers frequently ask with a tone of sympathy and skepticism, as if they are waiting for me to start crying  and rebuke my choice, "so hows the camping thing goin?" And then they hesitantly accept my explanation of how we have been sleeping better than ever, the afternoons are so relaxing, life seems simplified, and each day after work as we show up to our campsite overlooking snow capped peaks, feels like a small vacation. And showers, well, Molly and I were never the cleanest people to begin with. We fell in love at a camp where we were lucky to get more than one shower a week. Regardless of our low shower rate, I think we have learned a few tricks on how to stay feeling fresh.

We have been blessed to house sit for several different friends, some who need us to take care of pets and gardens, others who are kind to give us their keys while they go on vacation. The showers, and availability to cook well has been great, but we are starting to turn down different free house sitting jobs because we have been missing our home in the hills. Well, I am going to always think fondly of this past summer. I think we might need to show our hospitality and have some people up to our "home" for a little sleep over pretty soon here.



The view from our new home
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hot in Nicaragua
[info]omargooding
I read a book one summer on the Nicaraguan civil war, and ever since was enchanted by the place. So as we finished our time in Guatemala we headed south on a variety of buses. Over the past three days we went from the farm in the Guatemalan high-lands winding down to San Salvador. We spent the night in the gang ridden, otherwise surprisingly relaxed capitol city. Then went by bus all day South through the smouldering hot and dry lowlands of El Salvador and Honduras. The contrast of poverty to wealth in El Salvador was unlike anything I have experienced, seeing tin or plastic huts for miles outside the city. And in Honduras, I hardly saw anything but arid hills and the occasional adobe roofed house.
 
Then we came into Managua, Nicaragua at night and were promptly warned by several people to be careful walking around. So we hopped a taxi to a hotel. We would have skipped Managua if possible, but the late arrival made in unreasonable to continue onto the colonial city of Granada. It is a nice city, with decent sites, a large lake, and what seems to be nice restaurants, but it is really hot and humid here two things I haven't experienced in a long time. We were living at 6,500 feet over a beautiful lake with volcanoes. The nights are cold, and the days are more than bearable. So it is hard completely appreciate the sites and activities here when comparing to the charming and cold hills of Guatemala and Southern Mexico
 
Despite the heat, we are having fun and blessed to experience the culture and sights of new places, of our neighbors with whom we share much history. We keep heading South tomorrow, cutting short our the time Nicaragua to rush to the cold national parks and relaxed beaches of Costa Rica.  


Sleepy horse in sleepy Granada



Granada Center



Laguna de Apoyo: a lake inside a volcano where we stayed 2 nights.

Isla de Ometpe: a volcanic island in lake Nicaragua. It was really too hot to enjoy, but it looks pretty in this photo.



Molly and I on a canopy bridge in the Monteverede Cloud Forest Reserve.



Some tiny mushrooms in the cloud forest.
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even hindu priests like wal-mart
[info]omargooding

Guatemala forces people to renew their visas every 90 days. We had the choice to go to Guatemala City and possibly waist two days on this process, or leave the block of Central American countries. We opted for Mexico; it is surprisingly North America, not Central. Luckily we were studying Spanish not too far from the Mexican border. So we made plans to finish our week of studying in Xela and go across the border for a week, as we had to spend 72 hours out of the country to make the renewal valid.

The day before we left, we met this aging-hippy-gringo in a chocolate store in Xela, and without sharing our plans with him, he told us that he was going to the same border town to renew some American guy’s passport, and then go on to the same town in Mexico as us. It was almost scary how exact his itinerary was to ours. But he was driving and offered us a ride, and we offered to pay some for the gas.

It should only be about a 3-4 hour drive to the border from Xela. We started our journey at 8 am and didn’t get to our destination until about 6pm, but we made it alive with all our money and passports… eventually. This man, named Ramjey, who looked exactly like my friend Scott in 40 years, was a Hindu priest from Missouri now living on Lake Atitlan in Guatemala. Along with him was is semi-ex-wife and daughter in law. Those two were African Americans from Chicago, reformed Muslim, Hindu, and now practicing Jews.

Well it was an interesting group, making for some of the most bizarre conversations about their life experiences and their insane conspiracies, like the pyramids being built by aliens, and the world coming to an end in 2012. Strewn between crazy stories were multiple stops along the journey. We delivered some donuts to a poor lady, bought Mexican Gas smuggled across the border, and Visited a hot spring in the middle of no-where. I even drove for half of the trip as Ramjey shared his tales about going to BYU, cheating his way out of Vietnam, and homeschooling eight children.

We got to the hectic Guatemalan border town, where Ramjey left his “family” with the car to wait for him while he went to buy cheap olive oil at Wal-Mart an hour across the border in Mexico for selling for profit in Guatemala. Ramjey used the other guys passport as his own. This way the American man got his Visa renewed like us, but just gave Ramjey money for the service, rather than going himself. Then we all got in the pleasantly clean and orderly Mexican Van and went to Comitan Mexico, where we half sadly said goodbye to Ramjey at Wal-Mart, and went on the discover the charming, clean, and orderly old city of Comitan.



Comitan Center: Ice cream man

 After Comitan we reluctantly moved on to San Cristobal de Las Casas, which is probably one of the most charming Mexican towns. We had breezed through it three years ago on our way to Guatemala, but this time we had plans to really take it in. We had two days and walked miles across the city from one church on a hill to another on the other side, and marveled as we looked back at the distance we had covered. We ate a few meals on the pedestrian street, and did some more Spanish studying each day. I could have spent more time there exploring the surrounding Mayan villages, but it was time to go back to the Opal House.



The main church in San Cristobal

We had grand plans to spend a few nights at the Lagos de Montabelo on the Border of Mexico and Guatemala. There are about a hundred lakes with different colors surrounded by dense forests and National Park. Well, when we got there it was raining, and we were dropped off in the middle of nowhere, so we walked for a while to catch a bus to a hotel we were looking for. After many taxi/bus rides we found the hotel that cost about 400% more than our guidebook said. We only had a enough money to spend one night, add to that the constant rain and cold, we got a quick start the next morning.


Our place at Lagos De Montebelo. Its colder than it looks.
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stores and miradores
[info]omargooding

The Opal House is still in its starting phase. It being partly a farm makes it easier to think about our work in analogies such as: our work here is walking the land, understanding it, tilling it for future years. And it also being a safe place for women and children, doesn’t just happen naturally over-night. That part takes rich and trusting relationships which take many seasons, tomato harvest, after avocado harvest. So though our work here might feel to me like I am building a box of wood by the road, eternally weeding, making a trail to the middle of nowhere, or slaughtering the Spanish Language, it is all part of a season, a cycle that is essential to the work of making this a hopeful, functioning place.

 With the help of Will and Glen - Glen a one time world class pot grower and smuggler/creator of Telluride Bluegrass, Jazz, & film festivals/celestial seasonings- we built a small store for the women that live here to sell food or crafts which they make. We opened up the store this past week. It is located on the property next to a view point on the main road called a mirador. Veronica, a single mother of two young children who came to Opal House with no place to live and very little hope, is working hard everyday at the store. Through micro-financing with her crafts she has paid off a $400 bank debt, and now is saving money she makes selling food to some day buy a house for her family. We are so blessed to pass hours talking with her and her children, and being a part of her story.



The store we built for Veronica

 



An art project we did with some local kids
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roots
[info]omargooding
I am having trouble getting my photos on the blog, therefore I have some stories still to be posted. At this moment, I am taking a break from the sleep over with the children, while the computer is free, as it so rarely is.
 
This is an appropriate time to reflect on our five months that have passed in Guatemala, as we are preparing to head back home with a brief tour south through the rest of Central America. In looking back, I thought that the poverty of Guatemala, of the third world, was all so basic and simply needed a few stimuli to promote great change. But the more time I spend here, the deeper I find the roots of poverty. They go back to colonial eras, to the 50's when the U.S. started a 30 year war here for cheap produce, to present religious wars, racism toward Indians, and now the capitalist saviours who are more like modern communists with their CENTRALIZED, wealth, land, power, and politics. And the ensuing choices now given to the people, since they can't choose to have 8 hours of school in stead of the mandated 4, and they can't own their own land because it is owned by foreigners, they make any choices they can. They choose between coke and Pepsi which rot the front teeth of their kids, and choose salty chips instead of rice and beans, leaving the majority malnourished; all these goods brought to them by the free market which isn't giving much freedom here. And the fathers who's instinct is to be a leader, to care for and provide for their family, feel powerless because they have no option of work even if they wanted, are left with nothing to bring home. So they come home and to fulfill their need of power and influence by beating their wives and kids.
 
These words are harsh, and pained me to write. But I thought development was so easy, like handing out food and shoes, and all is better. But the poverty here, though different, has some of the same undertones of that in the U.S. It has a culture and a momentum of its own, and it is hard to break. It is so deep that it the start is hidden under layers of fighting and losing, trying and dying, and sadly harder to determine is the end. So I have learned much, not any answers, but so much about the human condition that never ceases to amaze, sadden and inspire me. This country and her people will be out of this extreme poverty one day, they will have an Indigenous leader, their own land, and a true free market. But the end is harder to reach than just micro finance, homes for children, and handing out toothpaste. I pray that the suppressed hearts of the people are not so sad that they can't believe in change for their children, nor for themselves. The 30 year war has destroyed their hearts, now there must be a uprising of a different kind, of non-violent revolt and political/economical overturn. I can be here to show these people they are worth more to me than they are to coke, or to us stock holders for their contributing labor, they are beautiful to me, and beautiful to our Lord, because He had an option for the least of these, for them. The change has not come. Our learning is not done.

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